Recent years has seen a vast increase in the fashion industry’s size inclusivity, from the launch of innovative curve-loving Kardashian brands, SKIMS and Good American to notable collaborations such as, Universal Standard’s 2019 collaboration with sportswear giants, adidas, offering pieces in sizes up to 4XL.
From Gen Z to Baby Boomers, inclusive clothing sizes has been a significant purchasing drive across all generations. In 2021 alone, highstreet retailers Reiss, Nobody’s Child, Simply Be and Anthropologie all expanded their clothing ranges with larger sizes. This year, WGSN outlined the plus-size industry is in a state of flux, as new brands emerge, and long-standing stores launch new lines to meet the demands of the customer.
However, undoubtably many fast fashion brands are the current reigning champions of size inclusivity, due to the vast amount of clothing items they produce and their competitively low prices. Business of Apps reported that Chinese e-commerce retailer, Shein adds 2,000 products to their site a day, however others have suggested this number is nearer 6,000.
One Twitter user (@koronkowy) said “Shein delivers. And it sucks. Plus size people want to make better choices but show me brands that are actively hitting the mark, as far as size inclusivity, in comparison to a fast fashion company.”
After changing dress sizes and facing the struggle to find the same quality, well-cut clothes that she used to wear, Nana Rasoeva created THE HOUR – a luxury, size-inclusive womenswear brand dedicated to crafting contemporary pieces that drape, frame and flatter the fuller figure.
Starting out as an Ob Gyn doctor in Tbilisi, Georgia, Rasoeva said she found a gap in the market for luxury plus size clothing after noticing pieces to be “uninspiring, often shapeless and made of cheap polyester.”
Creating clothes that are empowering and lend confidence in sizes 12-28, the London-based designer describes how her brand uses versatile, high-quality materials and contemporary styling to chime with a woman’s every fashion need. Whether you’re running errands or heading to a summer garden party, the brand’s pieces work to coordinate and blend seamlessly with your already existing wardrobe.
Photo credits: The Hour London
'I believe that style is about expressing yourself and making sure you look and feel great regardless of size or age.’
Nana Rasoeva, Founder and Creative Director of THE HOUR
Experts at cutting for curves, Rasoeva explains how THE HOUR balances proportions and shapes the waist to accentuate the sweeping arc of the female form. The founder said: “The voices of the curvy women are finally being noticed in the fashion industry, however, the majority of women are still underserved and not heard as consumers.”
Despite more brands extending their size ranges and offering plus size styles, Rasoeva stresses how many still get the sizing and fit wrong: “It’s not just about grading up the existing patterns from a straight size,” she adds, “Brands need to invest in skilled patternmakers, multiple fittings to ensure a great fit, tweak the grading rules to ensure that fit is consistent regardless of the size and use high-quality fabrics.”
Designing stylish women’s footwear in sizes 8 and above, Laura Schofield also founded her brand, Otto + Ivyafter finding both highstreet and luxury brands failed to offer trend-led shoes in larger sizes: “After spending years unsuccessfully pleading with retailers to extend their shoe sizes, I realised the only way to fit into shoes was to create my own, and Otto + Ivy was born.”
“Those that do include a Tall range, seem to forget that a huge amount of tall women need the over-16 sizes too,” explains Schofield, who says clothing brands claim to be inclusive but often disregard tall women. She adds, “Tall” and “plus-size” are not mutually exclusive states.”
Mintel’s 2021 UK Clothing Retailing Report suggests there is a trend for greater size inclusivity, with fashion retailers in the mid-market to premium brands expanding their size offering from petite to plus-sizes. However, brands will need to produce a wide range of sizes within their core collections, rather than labelling them as separate specialist ranges, to avoid alienating customers.
Best known for her trendy and bold fashion statements, wardrobe stylist Beverly Osemwenkhae (aka BeverlyO) believes fashion and great style should be accessible and available to everyone: “We should all be in a place where finding high quality fashion forward pieces in an array of sizes should be available in boutiques and high-end department stores.”
Founding ProjectBee Consulting, an image and wardrobe consulting service that works with charities such as Bottomless Closet and Project HEAL, Beverly said: “It really falls into the hands of designers to bring that to the forefront and we're starting to see more of that on the runway.
‘The fashion industry sets the tone of what's in at the moment, and with the average woman being a size UK 16 it's up to us to make sure that's being represented.’
Beverly Osemwenkhae, Wardrobe Stylist
The NYC creative praises brands such as Ganni, Kai Collective, Good American, Mara Hoffman, and Reformation for bringing inclusivity to the heart of their brands. Also highlighting Roksanda and Erdem, Osemwenkhae said: “It's refreshing to see top luxury brands including larger sizing in their collections, it's a start in the right place.”
Photo credits: BeverlyO
Luxury fashion and beauty influencer, Victoria Barbara places the focus on the importance of diverse representation and how it provides comfortabilities for all women. Prompted by the statement ‘fashion is not one size fits all’, the US based model said: “It's beautiful to see variety and expression, it helps keep fashion fun and exciting.”
CEO of Sip and Shoot, a networking photography event to showcase body positivity and self-love, Dee Thomas stresses how clothing has been limited to a 3XL in major fashion brands for many years: “It is time to stop excluded those that wear bigger sizes, something as simple as finding nice clothes should not be such a difficult task when you are plus size.”
Following the motto of ‘every body is a model body’, the 31 year old plus size model explains that plus size women often feel they have to lose weight to become a model, she said: “Brands are trying to beautify inclusivity, they attempt to add plus size models, but very carefully to make sure that it remains beautiful in the eyes of society.” Supporting the common consensus that fashion brands need to increase their size ranges, Thomas said: “I am waiting on the company that takes risks and shows all forms of plus sizes; the apron bellies, the loose skin, the cellulite.”
'More brands are also hiring more plus size brand ambassadors, but is it really fair to use all shapes and sizes for sales but not for representation on the website?'
Dee Thomas, Plus size model and Founder of Sip and Shoot
Photo credits: @deesoopretty on Instagra
After a successful 8-year long career as a Lead Fashion Stylist at a national retail company in the US, Molly Johnson left her job to search for a more inclusive industry to express her creativity. “To put it lightly, the fashion world didn't always make me smile,” Johnson said, “As hard as I tried to adapt and change the conversation within the industry, and as fulfilling as it was to make beautiful inclusivity shifts for the good within my past company, I just was not being as fulfilled as I knew I needed to be.”
Originally from Dallas, Texas, Johnson wanted to use her career as a Fashion Stylist to show what the world looks like: “To me, an inclusive representation of size and shape has always and will always be the most important thing the fashion industry can do.”
‘Fashion speaks to people on all levels, and you don't want to exclude anyone from the experience solely on size or shape.’
Molly Johnson, Ex-Fashion Stylist and Founder of Oddball Studio
Photo credits: Molly Johnson
Now based in Gifford, Scotland, Johnson believes it’s important for brands to show their garments on multiple bodies, list the models’ measurements, and not to offer plus size shoppers a limited clothing selection. “We are moulded from such a young age to compare ourselves to what is advertised in front of us,” explains Johnson, she continues: “We want to be what we see, and if we never see ourselves that leads to an unhealthy physical ideal.”
Moving forward, the woodcraft designer wants to see the fashion industry adapt their methods, focusing on creating a safer viewing environment and showcasing all forms of the body, she said: “I wholeheartedly disagree that fashion has to be exclusive, it is made for all.” Johnson urges fashion brands to acknowledge customers are all created in different shapes and forms, she added: “Take the time to develop a plan to grow your size range, whilst also paying attention to how the body shape changes as you go up and down in size.”
Leaving the fashion world behind her, the 29 year old crossed the waters to swap careers and study at The Chippendale International School of Furniture in Edinburgh. Now, Johnson solely works on her own woodcraft furniture business, Oddball Studio. Celebrating diversity, creativity and beauty in all its forms, the founder said: “I strive for this brand to welcome all, to become a place that's more than just about wood but about a community in art and togetherness.”
With the help of body-positivity influencers and a (small but sure) increase in the visibility of all body shapes and sizes in global fashion campaigns, the representation of size inclusivity within fashion is on the rise. But ultimately, the accurate portrayal and recognition of our society lies within the hands of fashion brands to utilise their resources, because they can do better.
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